Chuy Ordaz

Grower/Winemaker
Sonoma, California, North America

Spotlight No. 20

The legend of Chuy Ordaz is well known in the viticultural circles of Sonoma and Napa. The story goes that Chuy’s little brother José Guadalupe, better known as Pepe, wanted to go to the US, so their mother sent Chuy to look after him. Pepe made it over the border, but it took Chuy 33 tries. It was an adventure that had the border patrol agents rooting for him. They knew him so well, they would have the paperwork ready so when they brought him in, all he had to do was sign it. Finally, in 1971, he made it and quickly had a job chopping wood alongside Pepe. Forty-five years later, Chuy is responsible for some of the most coveted vineyards in the region. 

Chuy’s family came from a tiny area in Michoacán, on the shores of Lake Chapala. They were farmers who grew all kinds of vegetables and raised chickens, pigs, cows and lots of little Ordazes. There were five boys and six girls and they all helped with the farm. Chuy had a mind of his own even as a little boy and his mother had her hands full, so she sent him to live with his grandparents up on the hill. It might sound like punishment, but Chuy loved Abuela Placita and learned everything he needed to know about life from her. She had lived through two civil wars and was fuerte (strong). Her practical view of life was based on survival: Expect nothing of others, work hard, do a good job, trust that life will take care of you, and always tell the truth. This became the foundation of Chuy’s contentedness, confidence and integrity. 

When Chuy finally got to the US, he went from chopping wood to being foreman at Kenwood Winery in little more than a year. He met his wife, Beverly, there. She was the pretty girl driving the tractor, and it was love at first sight. When Kenwood Winery was sold, its contracted vineyard owners wanted Chuy to continue to look after their vines, so he got his farm labor license, and he and Beverly started Palo Alto Vineyard Management in 1991. Beverly manages the books and Chuy takes care of the vines. They have six kids; “I named them and Beverly did everything else,” jokes Chuy. He did what his grandmother said: He worked hard, provided for his family and made sure they all got a good education. And all of them are thriving, including Chuy Jr., who enjoys getting dirty at work with his dad, and Epifanio, who makes the Ordaz Family Wines. 

Early in the morning you can find Chuy’s signature red truck parked alongside the vineyards where he is alone working with the vines. He loves putting plants in the earth and watching them grow, whether vines in the vineyards or flowers in his garden. He does not worry about moon cycles. He just follows the flow of the seasons and lets nature tell him what to do. He says young vines get droopy when they are stressed so he has to irrigate them, but only a little, so the roots learn to go deep to find water and survive on their own, just like the old vines have for more than 100 years. 

Chuy has a special connection with old vines. He imagines how it was when they were planted: “Farmers had no money, just one cart, one horse and there was no such thing as irrigation.” He says it is still possible to dry farm with the right rootstock and soil. It just takes a little more effort. “Nature is alive, breathing,” he says. “It takes a long time to grow old. Nature needs us to take care of it so it can take care of us.” 

Resistance to the use of chemicals is instinct for Chuy. It is not good for the wellbeing of the vineyards or the people who tend them. Chuy does only what is necessary to take care of the owner’s investment, like a little sulfur in the Spring. The owners work with Chuy on the big decisions, like what to plant and how much to charge for the grapes. The rest of his work is with the winemakers, who meet with him in the vineyards about four or five times between budbreak and harvest. And when Chuy discovers some old vines or is planting new ones, which winemaker does he work with? “The one who answers the phone first,” Chuy says with a smile.  

Abuela Placita lived to be 113 and never left her land. Everything she ate came from her land and she never needed more. She told Chuy there is no need to be afraid; it is just life and all will be okay. Chuy listened to her. His ease in life encourages admiration and trust, which he humbly accepts with humor and grace. He loves what he does: “I care for the vines so we can grow old together.”