Garnatxa Negra is the pretty one, the Pinot Noir of the Priorat. It is transparent, anxious to reveal the story of its life. It is round and happy, with seductive spice. It tends to lack acid, tannins and color, which is why it often gets blended with Carinyena. But the dry, hot terroir of the Priorat gives Garnatxa the perfect stage for presenting its charms. Its silky texture swirls across the palate, calling forth sensations of earthy sweet chocolate, wild herbs, lavender and violets. Roasted red and black fruit reveal its delicious sweetness.

Carinyena is the strong protector. It carries the terroir with powerful expression, calling forth its herbal, inky, pencil-lead core from its black fruit depths. When Garnatxa needs it, it is there to provide support. On its own, Carinyena is expressive, even a bit wild. It is always serious, standing tall with broad shoulders and structure. But strength does not dominate Carinyena’s potential for elegance. The density of its texture expands with finesse and restraint. It could choose to dominate, but never would. It prefers a more persuasive path.

Garnatxa Blanca has a complex nature, offering a variety of expressions depending on its vinification. Acidity ensures brightness, but a judicious use of oak will also bring out the richer, nuanced side of this grape. Soft ripe stone fruits are balanced by classic Priorat herbs, minerality and silky sweet tannins that could be mistaken for those of a Priorat red wine. Blending with other regional white varieties like Macabeu and Pedro Ximénez can add even more dimensions.

—Adapted from Ethos Priorat, a book by Elizabeth Hecker